Going off the beaten track can be intimidating and frustrating. But
what if I told you there was a magical place in India with a
one-of-a-kind attraction that not only houses you for free, but feeds
you for free as well?
Welcome to The Golden Temple.
The Golden Temple, or Harmandir Sahib in Punjabi, is the holiest
temple in the Sikh faith. The Sikhs number some 30 million and are the
fifth largest organized religion in the world.
The faith was founded by Guru Nanak Dev and expanded upon by ten more
gurus. Sikhs follow the five K's: kes (uncut hair), kangha (small
wooden comb), kaṛa (circular steel or iron bracelet), kirpan
(sword/dagger), and kacchera (special undergarment).
The Golden Temple offers stunning views at sunrise, sunset,
throughout the day, and at night. You really can't go wrong, but each
view offers something special.
The easiest way to take in all four views, and the friendliest to a
budget traveler's wallet, is to stay on site at the temple. Sikh
hospitality is renowned throughout India and their temples reflect this.
The Golden Temple offers Indians very basic, barebones accommodation
in the form of a large, shared open space to sleep on with a shared
bathroom to use.
There is a special room for foreigners. Though it would be rated 0
stars, if you're on a budget it won't be terribly different from a
hostel in India. There are several beds in the main room and five
adjoining rooms where a group could set up camp. Lockers are also
available to keep your belongings safe, but bring your own lock. There
is a shower there with warm water. The public bathrooms are among the
cleanest you'll find in India. A donation is appreciated at the end of
your stay.
Sikh warriors patrol the temple. You'll notice them right away in
their blue uniforms carrying various weapons. They are friendly and if
you're lucky they'll even pose for a picture.
As you explore the temple, I beg of you, let this be the only time in
India when you accept the unsolicited help of a guide. The Sikhs are
aware that they have an image problem. Many young people eager to
practice English and teach foreigners about their faith will greet you
and offer to take you on a tour of the temple. You'll get great
explanations and discover areas not in a guide book. You'll also meet a
local person!
Another way to meet local people is to eat at the public kitchen on
the temple grounds. The temple, as well as just about all Sikh temples,
serves free, warm meals throughout the day. It is standard Punjabi
cuisine - chapatis, dhal, and raitha, or Indian flat bread, lentils, and
yogurt with fried chick peas. All food put on your plate must be eaten,
so if you don't want something or don't want seconds, just put your
hand over your plate when the server comes around.
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